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BOOMERALIA: Archive of Boomer's Reports

March 22 - Day 1

Kinichiwa,

Wouldn't you know it - been here 5 days - everyday sunny - start pedaling late today - after a nice morning with the press in Hachiko Square, Tokyo - the skies open-up - can't believe how warm it is for this time of the year - made it about 30k south of Yokohama - had my 1st run in with the love hotels - these places particularly around Tokyo - because of the shortage & expense of accommodation - hotels are built & rented out by the hour - now what goes in these places is anybody's guess - so, while inquiring for a room at 3 establishments - finally a light comes on when accommodation is refused, by each -they only let couples in - men & women, only - not rain drenched single foreigners - so, after riding all afternoon in the rain - you can imagine the bike helmet nearly blew-off - finally found a straight hotel - will get going early tomorrow - had a short radio interview with the guys at the TEAM in Ottawa this evening, their a.m. - think it went ok - they suggested we talk again next week - off to bed - it is nice to be rolling, finally - will take a day or 2 to get in form - with this trip's kit - again, almost feel lucky the weather is so warm - weather research indicated average day time +10>12c - everyday has been +18>20 - big difference - no wind to speak of today - spring blossoms are out of this world - have a nice weekend.

Boomer

P.S. if you are ever in Tokyo you just have to stay with the Berlet's - top-drawer -many thanks again to Lisa & Tim for all your help & hospitality - you have some very interesting friends - hope to return the big favour, soon.

Sayonara

Boomer Dispatch, Kobe, Japan 02.03.27:

March 23 - Day 2

Kinichiwa,

Another heavy traffic day - light rain - nothing to stop riding - the new bike seat is taking a little getting used to - it will take a day or to break the other seat in - 2nd day warm again - rode with sandals & short sleeve shirt - terrain rolling - very pleasant.

March 24 - Day 3

Turned cold over night - southeast wind - gusting at times - raining off & on - temp. 12 - wind chill much colder - wearing long johns, Stanfields of course - complete weather gear on to ward off wind chill - suffering a little 3rd day stiffs - slow going - made last ferry across channel to Toba - info lady connected with ferry captain - had sailed containers into Vancouver, St. John's & Halifax - very helpful & arranges accommodation in Toba - very grateful - cold & tired - into hotel in 5 minutes - big hot bath.

March 25-Day 4

First day waking up feeling normal - over the worst so to speak - bike feels natural for the 1st day - worked out smaller road route - traffic noticeably lighter - more farming - along coast - very pretty - this is a pearl centre - sorry Heather - dropped into bank to change money - everyone looking with open eyes after telling Japan teller who spoke English about RTS - had trouble getting away - they pulled up web site - started asking questions - in disbelief - got away - most attractive countryside yet - small farms - people working in the fields - spring a least 60 days ahead of Gatineau Hills - found nice hotel - big steak for dinner.

March 26-Day 5

Another riding experience - bigger hills going east - sun out fully - warm again - nice back roads - no traffic - no people - very pleasant - hope to connect with Philip McGlade in Kobe, TREK, Japan - rode into Osaka - just west of Kobe - heavy traffic - night fall - got on to subway to Kobe - trouble finding hotel - all full - finally soft talked clerk who had worked in Vancouver to give me no show room - CDN pins work sometimes - tell Jim Watson CDN pins work - went late for paste - big day - big sleep.

March 27-Day 6

Spent day with the wonderful people at TREK Japan - baby Sophie, Victoria & Philip McGlade took me home for B& B - magnificent hospitality very much appreciated - TREK Japan just great & very helpful.

March 28-Day 7

Victoria McGlade prepared a delicious bacon & egg breakfast - after a very good nights sleep - had the pleasure to feed baby Sophie McGlade - returned to TREK, Japan offices with Philip - finished up on the time consuming emails - joined Tama, TREK, Japan Marketing Dir for lunch with Ms. Toshiko Tagnehi from EI-Publishing, bicycling magazine - Tama took us to a traditional Japan workers kitchen for lunch - a very elderly Japan lady with her entire male family was running the show - the food was everything you would imagine - Tama was a little worried the CDN guest may not take to the food very well - surprise - lots of fish - veggies - salads - soups - the works - it was delicious - chopstick action was very impressive - finally got away early PM - beautiful day - sunny - warm - with cool breeze - traffic noticeably lighter as moving down the country - had the 1st flat tire - Boomer's luck came in handy - directed by 2 women who could not speak English to a nice elderly man 2 blocks away - tire changed in a flash - trouble finding a hotel again - Finally located one after much search - direction in a dark back-alley - man behind the desk could speak English - directed to grocery store - yoghurt, box of fresh strawberries, some kind of fish sandwich, cold beer - bath - fast to bed - it was hard to say goodbye to our new friends at TREK, Japan - the help & kinds was much appreciated & very helpful....

March 29-Day 8

After a good nights sleep - on the road early with bright sunshine - cycled along Japan west coast - got with 120km of Hiroshima, Fukuyama - nothing but bumps along the way, small hills - very nice along the coast, refineries, steel mills, warehouses, container facilities - weather turned in the afternoon - raining off & on lightly all afternoon - started pouring around 6:30PM - found hotel at 7:30 - very helpful at front desk South Korea, again - called the TEAM radio in Ottawa - had a good chat with the boys - off to bed - out like a light.

March 30-Day 9

Continued along the coast - temperature is cool - had to put outer clothes on - a lot of industry along the way - finally hit a lovely beach wall - lot of protected outer islands -shipyards - reminded me of Collingwood a few years ago - taxi driver at the end of the day gave directions to the Gosui Hotel - all signs in Japan - no telling what business is being carried out inside - walked up a flight of stairs with the bike into a bar - someone who had been drinking quite a bite spoke English - lead the way back out of the bar & down the street - the taxi driver was wondering where the stranger had disappeared - everything taken care of - typical small country Japan hotel - low ceilings - small doors into each room - but the best was the bath with lots of hot water after a long days ride - more yoghurt & stuff - out to sleep like a baby.

March 31-Day 10

Warm morning - early start - the Gosui was very quiet - finished off the bananas before starting - the day was the kind you dream about riding - nice cool breeze & warm sunshine - found some straight yellow-small Japan back roads - forced to ride through some more tunnels - better than riding over the hills - traffic not bad - got a little rain in the afternoon - first fall of the trip - was pulling into a gas station to make a pit stop & didn't notice the iron plate running along the road in the asphalt - the tire rode the plate - lost balance & down you go - no big deal - everyone ran out of the garage - pull the embarrassed one up - made the pit stop - no damage to the green hornet - out of there - arrived in Komoseki after dark - checked out the ferry for S. Korea - full - booked for the next day - checked into the Tokyo Hotel - one of the best days riding so far - same routine before bed - crashed again - this time sleeping .

Japan Re-cap

Arrived in Tokyo on 3.17 - had a wonderful time getting to know the Berlets - really appreciate all their hospitality & help - enjoyed meeting their many friends from all over the world - without Lisa & Tim's assistance Ride to Survive would not have started as smoothly - thanks to the Berlets & Tokyo chums. Departed Tokyo on 3.22 - great send off with media - many thanks to Rita Mezzanotte back in Ottawa, Paul Burnet at the CDN Embassy in Tokyo & Philip McGlade, TREK, Japan for pulling everything together with the media - the media were very interested in RTS donations - how it would work - how Japan could get involved - why was TREK sponsoring us - would we complete the 29K km journey - the Web site served as a useful reference - the media seemed satisfied. Riding the 1st few days was a little tedious - getting used to the heavy pack - the heavy traffic - a new bicycle seat - it was slow going - it rained most days - but nothing that would stop a Canadian, eh! - The traffic thinned out the day before the Toba ferry - the captain was a delight by the way he took charge of finding what had to appear to be a tired cyclist a fast hotel- once on the next island the small back roads were a joy all the way to Osaka - then meeting the McGlades & the TREK, Japan Team provide a great break .5 way through Japan - from Kobe to Shimonoseki the riding was a joy - full days - well over 100 km on most - missing the ferry to S. Korea was a bonus - it provided a days rest - on the last day in Japan did a little shopping for Heather - had a private shopping advisor - one of the young ladies on the info desk took charge - gift off to HT wrapped, mailed, the whole kit as they say in Maniwaki, QC. One flat tire - one minor tumble - nothing but warm Japan welcomes at every stop - Japan is a great place to cycle on the Yellow roads - everywhere else is too busy - there are a lot of Y roads & many places to ride next time - Would definitely ride here again - stage one, SUCCESS - ON TO S. KOREA - Boat leaves 7 p.m. into Pusan, South Korea 8:30 a.m.

April 1&2-Day 11 & 12

Shimonoseki, Japan to Pusan, South Korea - very smooth crossing the Japan Sea - shared 8 person berth with 3 Japan, 1 Mongolian, 2 South Korea, 1 Dr. from China & the rider - much South Korea drinking & arguing all night - but quick voyage - moored at 3:30 am - fast trip - up anchor at 8 am into Pusan dock by 8:30 - South Korea immigration & customs hardly gave the CDN a glance - others not so lucky - went the process with the bike & back almost as fast as Japan - the young South Korea ladies could not have been more helpful at the info desk in South Korea - Anfrew, my new South Korea friend wouldn't leave for Seoul until the CDN was taken care of - info ladies arranged for free internet at the int'l centre - South Korea people noticeably more outgoing - Japan & South Korea want to help CDNs - a little busy getting out of Pusan - rode 'til dark - with a lot of sign language finally found small rural hotel - .5 the price compared to Japan - same routine at the store - but more difficult to communicate with lady store owner & her kids - jam in food - bath - get to bed.

April 3-Day 13

Into long South Korea valleys - roads are well surfaced - feel American - compared to Japan feeling European - had a Christian minister following most of the morning in his van with loud speakers on top - at each rest stop, more talk - invited home to visit family & parishioners - name Yang Sung RA - unfortunately the church was off the route - South Korea smells a lot like Iowa - if you have ever been there you will understand - pigs - in South Korea there is a similar manure smell - South Korea is farming more commercially compared to Japan as would appear - Japan seems more family run - got to Okcheon very late - 1st seedy hotel - but very nicely received - a bit too much giggling to be perfectly legit - know what, eh! - Grabbed some food at the store - nice bath - don't remember hitting the pillow.

April 4-Day 14

Made a big mistake on arriving at seedy hotel last night - while showing the room - the kind South Korean lady was very helpful - carrying the bike up 3 floors - the heavy backpack - running the bath - making sure the room was ok - gesturing that it was OK to pay later 20,000 won (about $20,US). Mistake! - The next morning I couldn't find a soul - walked all over the hotel, 5 floors - nobody - South Korea gets up late, goes to bed late - no nice lady anywhere? - Back to the reception area - where a man was found asleep on the floor - behind closed glass windows - below the counter - nice ladies husband? - Night watchman? - Who? - Practically had to knock the door down to wake him up - he has no idea what is up. 20 minutes after starting to look for someone - - need to go back up stairs to get room # - 303 - back down stairs - write down room # & 20k won on a piece paper - he's still asleep - shakes head in agreement - finally underway - no more pay next day stuff.

Another nice cool sunny day - the last day and a half has been nice rolling valleys - same for today - as well as really enjoying the weather, countryside & riding. Best day riding since leaving Tokyo - really felt strong - had to slow the pace down - don't need to go that fast - well over 100+ - found chicken mom & pop restaurant on way into some town - these places are really someone's home with kids running around the place - wash up in their personal washroom - other than the restaurant there is a small bedroom off the kitchen - like being in someone's home, really. Good food! The young mom, the husband stayed out on the street the whole time there - pointed out the door - up the street to a motel, that read "Claudia Motel" - it was getting dark. Two minutes later - in the door - up the stairs (reception for some reason is on the 2nd floor in these places), funny daughter tried to communicate - much better than the visitor's command of South Korean. Again loads of help getting the traveller settled - into the tub - then bed - sleep comes easily - don't remember hitting the pillow - perfect day.

April 5-Day 15

Hasn't rained a day since leaving Japan. Had some yogurt before leaving motel Claudia. Rode for about an hour - estimated another 70km into Seoul. Went over the top of a hill - it seemed like a wall of civilization popped up - high-rise after high-rise. The traffic wasn't bad - guess because of the holiday - Arbor Day - this was a big thing for us when growing up - clean the schoolyard - plant a tree - good stuff. Why don't Canadians do this anymore? National holiday in South Korea - lucky again - riding in one of the busiest cities in the world - happens to be a civic holiday. Good planning - ya! The traffic is something like the busiest day in Ottawa traffic - after a while decided to move on to a bigger road into Seoul - traffic moving slowly - wide shoulder - well paved - passing cars as they stop & start - after previously riding in other big cities: New York, Paris, London, Toronto, Tokyo Sioux City-Iowa & Collingwood, Ontario, (joke eh!) - Seoul is just another carbon fumed-filled canyon - grid locked with lights. It's an interesting challenge - not really riding though, more of an obstacle course, or chicken. Finally get to Best Western behind the Seoul, city hall Other than the odd honk - surprising less than expected - got lucky again with what would guess was a lot less than normal traffic on a Friday afternoon - as usual the staff at the hotel were terrific. Quick bath (couldn't download pictures on business center computers - so up to the corporate office & use new pc), hit the restaurant for a steak - hadn't had one since Kobe, Japan - the body was craving protein. Confirmed through desk clerk that next ferry to China, Dangdong doesn't sail until Monday at 6 pm - stuck in Seoul for 3 days. It has been a pretty easy ride up the South Korean peninsula - but for a few steep passes the 1st day - pretty easy riding really. A very good experience - surprising there is a lot more to see here - people are exceptionally friendly - very enterprising - hard working - the written & spoken language is impossible for an English speaker - but everyone tries to help the ignorant westerner, anyway, gracefully. All this did not prevent a great ride - & time en route. Checking out Seoul - one big city is kind of like another - to this rider anyway. Hope to ride around city early tomorrow - when it is quiet - looking forward to a good night's sleep.

April 6 - Day 16

Waited for media on sat morning just in case - wasn't expecting anyone - no problem

April 7 - Day17

Seoul uneventful - cold +10c, cloudy - complete turn in weather. Big winter storm in Siberia - Ulaanbaatar-10c.Had to drink Dunkin' Donut's coffee today - no Starbucks, closed - NOT TIM'S - passed on the dough stuff - prepared new route off net on good old Best Western computers.

Day 18 & 19- April 8 & 9

On the oriental pearl - sailing from Seoul to Dandong, China As you may already know, this ferry is 3 days behind schedule - for whatever reason, not sure - yellow dust storms - this is a special weather wind condition out of China off the deserts when the wind blows west - never heard of it before - practically shuts down Seoul. I'm a bit suspicions the ferry was delayed because there weren't enough passengers going to Dandong, China. Anyway, it's now about 2 hours out of port - Dandong - the time changes by 1 hour in Dandong - instead of 14 hours ahead of Ottawa, now 13...getting closer.

Seoul as may have been mentioned earlier is a huge city - 21 million people - all in a big hurry - not as orderly as Tokyo - but not as bad as New York or Los Angeles. Seoulites not quite sure what's up with the westerner they see all over town in the spandex. Don't forget, the magic suitcase didn't show in Seoul with the rider's civy clothing -had to wear what is being hauled around in the osprey backpack.

Some memories of Seoul & the extra 3-day delay in town - the craziest was bumping into an old friend from Ottawa in Starbucks beside the best western hotel early on Monday morning - with chemical engineer in tow - chasing a deal to use biocorn to replace plastic packaging - look out Dupont. The Mr. Canadian was just as funny in Seoul as is at home. We went to the Canadian embassy together. After his meeting - he knew everybody at the embassy - then he had to go to another meeting - only this rider would run into Rick Logan in the middle of Seoul - fun guy.

While at the embassy met Penny who told us her husband Arthur just completed a prostate operation successfully - down the hall Duane supplied some Canadian pins because restocking was impossible when the magic suitcase didn't show up in Seoul. These pins are serious currency during the ride. Duane made another tour of the office. Met Bez, Canada's Mr. culture in South Korea, for lunch. Had a very helpful chat about how RTS might be able to find a CANCER partner in South Korea. The South Korean food for lunch was delicious - the South Korea Arbour Day long weekend didn't help our chances for finding a partner - hopefully we can find an org in the future to work with us to raise money for their South Korean CANCER needs. Want to thank all the staff at the Best Western, New Seoul Hotel for all the care & feeding during the stay - good choice Scott McCord. Would recommend it to anyone - best value in Seoul great spa on the 14th - can't forget to mention the Lotte shopping store - just across the street from the best western - wonderful eating spots both in the basement & up on the 11 & 12th floors - & anything else you want to buy western or South Korean - must stop by when in town. Have to say thanks to Mr. Im, the TREK dealer in the IMOP dept store - thanks to Andy at TREK, South Korean who got the green hornet tuned up before leaving South Korea - many thanks for the free service.

Day 20 & 21 - April 10 & 11

Getting on the Dandong ferry was quite an experience - again arriving on a bike to sail to Canadian is not normal - the process was like boarding a plane in Canada - confirm passage - show passport & visa - go thru security - except, took wrong escalators - out of no where South Korean man realizes the rider is lost - leads us up another escalator - through another security passport & visa check, again - between getting the bike, the pack, the handlebar case, pulling out the passport/visa, again & handling groceries for the ferry ride - quite a scene getting through the process - the South Korean gentlemen was very kind.

The South Korean man asks the riders destination - Beijing. Everyone's eyes open wide - much chatter in South Korean & Chinese. First question - how old is the rider - much ohhhhing back & forth amongst the crowd - then where has the rider come from - Tokyo, Shemnoseki, Pusan Seoul - more ohhhhhing & laughter this time - then where to after Beijing - Ulaanbaatar & on to London, Great Britain - screams at this point - lots of pats on the back - then down escalators at the back of the terminal to waiting buses - get on the wrong bus - how can you tell with all the symbols - no English signs - off that one on to the dandong bus - everybody laughing - where is the South Korean guy when you need him. Drive out to the oriental pearl ferry - can't lift a thing - everyone on the bus grabs something of the rider's - everything vanishes up the gangway - a deckhand leads the rider to a locked room - mattress on the floor - the green hornet-TREK bike is gently placed in bed for the voyage to China - then escorted up to berth 403, mattress 1 - all the riders stuff is there waiting - can't lift a finger. Point of interest - everyone traveling has tons of goods going back to China - looks like they have been on a shopping spree in South Korea. Had a nibble & went to sleep - didn't really move until the prop stopped turning at about 6:30am the next morning. The only thing that happened during the night was the old Chinese gentlemen sleeping on the next mattress put an extra blanket over the rider - at least guess it was him - didn't let on. Another Asian taking care of a desperate western cyclist - appreciate the thought - everyone taking good care of the rider. Went up on deck at 6:30 - it looked like the entire Chinese fishing fleet was heading to sea. Apparently Dandong has 2000 fishing boats - it looked like everyone of them was under sail - got picture, will try to send ASAP when a cd rom is located. All & all the sail was much nicer than the Shemonoseki to Pusan trip - no boozing to speak of - no all night discussions at top volume. It looked like a different crowd going to China - business guys & a few South Korean folks going back to work in China - other than the fishing fleet delaying us by at least 3 hours - the oriental pearl was a good trip - everyone very nice.